She Tales # 6 - China
It is night, and it is anything but dark, as the lights dazzle you on the modern buildings that seemingly soar into the starry night here in the city of Shanghai. Dawn breaks over a city drenched in duality, casting its first light over the colorful aging pagodas of Old Chinese City, the stout congressional style buildings (a leftover from colonial times), the ultra-modern skyscrapers, and the homes of a staggering eight million people. From our window high above, I watch this waking city as its resident’s scurry through long narrow streets on foot, while bicyclists go barreling by them. Metal doors roll open, streets are swept with handmade brooms, goods for sale are laid out on the streets, and taxies are honking as they squeeze through this crowded space.

Venturing forth into the streets on our way to Old Chinese City, I am struck by the differences in writing. Chinese Characters dress the storefronts, which are pressed up against each other like so many dominoes in a box. Above, something purple and swinging in the breeze catches my attention. It turns out to be a pair of underwear hanging in the window to dry. Hanging laundry of every type lines the street as far as the eye can see - way down the street and up the five to seven story buildings. A bicyclist rings his bell for me to get out of his way and my focus is brought back to street level. Old Chinese City is what I expected most of China to be like. Pagoda style architecture, the rooflines curve upwards until they are swallowed by dragons, the facades in detailed wood carving, arched entryways that are bright and intricately painted. The streets of the Yu Yuan Bazaar are full with storekeepers and restaurants all vying for your business with a healthy mix of street vendors, who all seem to know the English words “Hello” and “Best Price.”

Yu Yuan Garden is found here among this bustling bazaar. A few hours here leads us through a tranquil oasis. We meander over arched bridges, through temples, past statues, and pagodas. The Ming Dynasty built the garden in the 1500’s and ancient Asian architecture abounds. Dragons protect from evil spirits from above as they are carved into the roofs; great stone lions protect from the entryway. The entire garden is age old Feng Shui with asymmetrical doors, Koi ponds, and winding walkways leading you through the tower of happiness and the Hall of Observing Quietness. Theses traditional Chinese structures don detailed woodwork and lamps; big red orbs covered with red cloth hanging about with red dangling fringe. Yu Yuan garden leaves you feeling relaxed as you exit back into the adjoining Bazaar selling everything from silk pajamas to steamed dumplings.

The stores in the Bazaar have an almost gravitational pull on the curious shopper. I was looking at a short black silk robe with painted with red characters meaning "long life". After negotiating from 298 Yuan to 160 Yuan, I told the attendant my husband says “no”. Christopher had wandered off by now and the nice clerk eager to make a sale yells rather loudly “Husband!” “Husband!!” It was kind of funny. Chris came over and she talked us into the purchase for 120 Yuan, or about fifteen U.S. dollars. A decent price and a fun experience at no extra charge. Later in our journey we were so much better at negotiations that we actually bought a short ladies robe for five dollars.

A half-mile walk east leads to the Bund District. A raised esplanade cuddled between the great river and the imperialistic buildings that would look more at home in Jolly Olde England than here in Shanghai. The streets are so wide and busy here that to cross over them you walk up and over an imposing concrete catwalk and back down the other side. From this vantage point I got my first look at these large stone buildings that are a reminder that Shanghai was once a colony for international commerce. To the right across the river is Oriental Pearl Tower at 468 meters (that’s 1532 feet). It is the tallest building in China. The adjacent buildings soar over the city below and are anything but the typical rectangles I have seen in most cities. It is as though the architects had a contest to see who could be the most unique, leaving a stunning geometric skyline.

When in a foreign country, I try very hard not to impose my thoughts about what is acceptable as far as manners, accommodations, or food, on my host country. That is to say, that because things are done a certain way in the U.S. that does not mean that is the way things are done in other countries. That being said, I cannot get over the constant spitting. Men are consistently and noisily getting rid of saliva spitting everywhere in public, out of taxi windows, from bicycles, in trains, bus floors, of course the street is covered more with expectorate that bird droppings. Men pushing women aside, as though the women are ghosts and do not exist or have a right to belong where they are, is another mannerism that I find unfortunate. I too have been pushed aside, at the new dam site, so a man could take a picture were I was standing. I was standing at this particular spot to get a good look at the enormous construction undertaking below. I was really shocked when I was pushed out of the way, not to mention a little hot under the collar. The concept of standing in line here is also a little amiss. Christopher and I were at the airport waiting in line to check in for our flight. When it was our turn to be helped, two different men came from behind us and shoved their airline tickets in the attendant’s face. One of the men stepped directly in front of the spot on which you must give the attendant your bags and he would not move. Then my luggage cart “bumped” into him, and he moved and allowed me to put our bags on the conveyor. All in all, it just makes me appreciate the mannerisms of my Christopher and the people back home even more.

Free Enterprise has erupted in this communist country. Whoever thought in a communist country goods would be limited, should take a look at China. Enormous ultra-modern department stores are stuffed full with all earthly material desires and brimming with buyers. Many people have their own businesses or shops. Education is mandatory for nine years and children can choose the secondary school they want to attend. People can choose their own jobs, and choose where they want to live, they can travel freely throughout the country. Times have changed and big cities here are similar to ones back home, on the surface at least.

China may have a kinder economy, but the economy is different from government. We were told that people could not speak out against the CCP for fear for their lives or at the least jail. Our day guide in Chongqing was telling me about the name of the Chinese President, President Jintao Hu, and I asked her if his name was pronounced like the beer Tsing Tao, she laughed and said “yes, but many years ago I could have gone to jail for saying such a thing.” I am lucky times have changed. The people here that we have met had the opportunity to speak with us, saying free enterprise and the overall feeling of openness is good for China and its people. But, the people still believe what there government wants them to. I was asked by a few people questions like “What do you think about SARS?” and “How to you feel about the was in Iraq” after answering, I asked them the same question and their reply generally began with “Our government says” not “I think” so, I think people are afraid to state their opinions.

China was a great experience, from the dynamic cities of Shanghai and Beijing, to the historical cities of Xian with its Terracotta Warriors and Badaling with is slice of the Great Wall, it was all amazing. I loved the Pandas of Chengdu and admire China’s efforts to preserve these distinctly beautiful animals. Visiting the Yangtze River from Wuhan to Chongqing, through the misty cover mountains of the Three Gorges, and the riverside cities that will be flooded this year after the dam is partially completed, was unforgettable. China still holds many unseen treasures. I look forward to returning to experience that which I did not have time to see: Mystical Guilin, the Dalai Lama Palace, Tibet and Hong Kong. China…until we meet again, I will treasure the memories.